Liquid-crystalline emulsions.
Ordered liquids whose structure resembles the stratum corneum of the skin – and what that means for a cream.
Fluid like a liquid, direction-dependent like a crystal.
Liquid crystals were first described in 1888 by Friedrich Reinitzer. Liquid-crystalline systems exhibit fluid properties like a liquid on the one hand, and direction-dependent – anisotropic – physical properties like crystals on the other.
This unusual combination gives materials of all kinds quite extraordinary properties. As early as the 1960s it led to the development of liquid crystal displays (LCDs).
Lyotropic liquid crystals
One particular form of liquid crystal is the lyotropic liquid crystal. These form when certain emulsifiers are dissolved in water, for example. At a suitable concentration of the emulsifier – and usually a co-emulsifier as well – submicroscopic structures arise that arrange themselves symmetrically and so form “ordered liquids”.
Lamellar structures
In creams of the O/W type (oil in water), lamellar structures are of particular importance. They cross-link to form a scaffold. Where emulsions contain a high proportion of such lamellar structures, their properties change decisively.
From a cosmetic point of view, three effects in particular are advantageous.
Skin affinity and skin feel
The molecular arrangement of the lipid substructures in such emulsions corresponds in many respects to the arrangement of lipid structures in the stratum corneum. Creams with liquid-crystalline structures therefore have a greater affinity with the skin and are distinguished by a particularly pleasant skin feel.
Controlled active release
Because of the lamellar scaffold structure, actives are released from liquid-crystalline emulsions gradually and in a controlled manner. This can markedly increase their efficacy.
Viscosity without thickeners
Liquid-crystalline structures make it possible to increase the viscosity of creams. Adding thickeners – which leave an unpleasant tacky feel on the skin and are responsible for a “mask” sensation – is therefore no longer necessary.
Inspired by the natural structure of the skin.
The Dermoaktiv care line from Green River Polymers was developed on the basis of liquid-crystalline emulsions. They are present in high concentration in the following products, giving a distinctively pleasant skin feel:
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